The undercurrent of suspicion as you enter the Naples district of Rione Sanità is palpable. It bears witness to tightly packed living conditions in a condensed neighbourhood where a sense of unease follows you from coffee shop to corner kiosk. Within the heart of the Camorra mafia gangs home turf the decaying graffiti-strewn walls are signs the neighborhood's troubled past is not far away. The vibrant streets and historical landmarks are visually captivating but there is an undeniable tension that underscores the daily life of Rione Sanità, a reminder of the complex realities that shape this down to earth and mesmerising district of Neapolitan life.