When the Birch Leaves Shine
Slava Lyu-fa | Betyung, Vilyuysky District, Sakha Republic, Russian Federation
Photographer: Slava Lyu-fa
Exhibit Title: When the Birch Leaves Shine
Location: Betyung, Vilyuysky District, Sakha Republic, Russian Federation
Irina resides in the Yakut village of Betyung, where she dedicates herself to gathering medicinal herbs—a wisdom imparted to her in the 1960s by the renowned Yakut healer, Nikon. In defiance of Soviet prohibitions, Nikon clandestinely treated Irina’s severe illness. Upon her recovery, he instructed her to return at a specific time, when the birch leaves would begin to shine. Recognizing a unique gift and a profound connection to nature within her, Nikon entrusted Irina with his knowledge of medicinal plants. For many years, Irina shared her life with her sister, Anna. They cohabited in the same house, managing their household together. However, in 2017, Anna passed away, leaving Irina alone. Irina’s son urged her to relocate to Yakutsk, but she declined, expressing that she could not endure city life. She chose to remain in the village, close to the forest that she holds dear, for as long as her health permits.
Slava Lyu-fa is a documentary photographer from Yakutia. He was born in the north of the republic, in the Srednekolymsky ulus, the village of Ebyakh. Now he lives in Yakutsk. His interest in photography arose in 2007. Since 2019, he has been a member of the creative platform "Prostranstvo". From 2023-2024, he is a student of the School of Modern Photography Docdocdoc.
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Nestled within the whispering embrace of the Vilyuy region, in the quaint village of Betyung, 565 kilometers from Yakutsk and a mere 14 kilometers from the federal highway, lies a serene space where approximately 400 people reside. Each spring and autumn, the road from the highway to the village succumbs to the gentle caress of rain. Since 2007, I have captured the essence of life here through the lens, documenting my grandmother Irina and her elder sister Anna.
The genesis of this village is woven into the tapestry of local lore. In the 17th century, a warrior from the lands of Amga, alongside his son, fled the ruins of familial strife — a tragic exodus that left them bereaved of kin. Journeying through vast terrains, they discovered a secluded sanctuary, thus founding a new settlement.
Irina and Anna, biological sisters, were raised in different households. In their childhood, they shared not only a family but also a surname — Vasiliev. Alongside them was their elder brother, Nikolai. In the early 1950s, across from their home resided another family, the Prokopyevs, who faced the agony of losing their offspring soon after birth. In desperation, the family patriarch, Pyotr Prokopyev, consulted a local sage, who advised him to adopt a child from another lineage — a path to ensure the survival of his own progeny. Thus, after a conversation with Dmitry Vasiliev, the head of the Vasiliev family, Pyotr adopted Irina, the younger daughter. This act forged a divide in the sisters' identities, with Irina becoming Irina Petrovna Prokopyeva and Anna remaining Anna Dmitrievna Vasilieva.
In time, the Prokopyev family welcomed children of their own, yet they continued to nurture Irina with kindness and love. Despite her new circumstances, Irina maintained a bond with her blood relatives, always aware of her lineage.
From the age of twelve, Anna dedicated her life to the arduous task of milking cows, once flourishing as a sportswoman. However, fate struck when a bull charged into the pen, injuring her leg, which would never fully heal, leaving her with a permanent limp. Unable to establish her own family, she cohabited with her brother, who too lived a solitary existence.
Irina pursued her education and became a teacher of the Russian language after her time at a pedagogical school. She married and gave birth but soon found herself raising her son alone as her husband departed.
In the early 1960s, Irina fell gravely ill, beset by debilitating headaches and unable to rise. During this era, many in the villages succumbed to tuberculosis contracted from livestock. After seven months in the hospital, she learned of a traditional Yakut healer, Nikon Alekseyevich Vasilyev, and implored her adoptive father to take her to him. Under the shadow of Soviet repression against healers and shamans, the journey required utmost secrecy. In spring, Pyotr Prokopyev took his daughter first by horse to Vilyuysk, and then across the Tyung River by boat, where she met Nikon near his yurt. After treatment, her health improved, but Nikon insisted she return in summer, precisely when the birch leaves shine. He believed this was when the healing herbs reached their peak potency.
Their second meeting marked the completion of her healing. During their third encounter in 1980, Nikon discerned a special affinity Irina possessed for nature, imparting to her the knowledge of medicinal plants. Thus began her lifelong reverence for nature, leading her to discover her true path.
Nikon passed away in 1984 at the venerable age of 104. In the late 1990s, after the death of Nikolai, Anna invited Irina to reside with her. Together, they shared a home, dividing household chores — Anna tended to the cows while Irina maintained the house and continued her studies of medicinal herbs. Each summer, they laboriously gathered hay, a task both challenging and rewarding. Though they often clashed in their philosophies, at times even cooking separate soups for lunch, they recognized the strength found in shared existence.
Years went by, and in 2017 Anna passed away, leaving Irina in solitude. Confronted with the burdens of the homestead, the family thought of relocating Irina to Yakutsk, yet she declined. Her heart anchored in the village, she felt more alive amidst the embrace of the woods.
When I visit, I sleep in the room that once belonged to Anna. Occasionally, my grandmother asks if I dream of Anna. For a long time, Anna remained elusive in dreams until one day, she appeared — sitting quietly without a word, yet radiating warmth and a sun-kissed glow. "This means she is well," my grandmother reassured me, a testament to the enduring bond even after life's final curtain.
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